Since we arrived a bit early for the festival, we went up to Otavalo, a town about 20 miles north of this community, which is famous for its artisan markets and indigenous crafts. It was so colorful, from roasted corn, fresh fruits and vegetables, to colorful blankets, bags, and alpaca sweaters. We also stopped at a quesoria (a local cheese making house) that made queso fresca. They also have volunteers who come to help them maintain the building and the business, and I got the chance to speak to some of the community members who said they were in need of more volunteers to help them with marketing and distribution. I had some good conversations with the people there. The cheese was amazing, and they were saying that unfortunately some of it goes to waste if they are not able to distribute or sell the cheese fast enough (since it´s fresh, it doesn´t last very long). This stuff would sell in a heartbeat in the US, totally organic, fresh, handmade from an indigenous community needing funds.
When we got back to the house, the host family prepared a meal, which consisted of hominy, small pieces of fried pork, half of a fresh avocado, and a roasted potato. It was actually good and filling. Then we headed out down to the celebration area, and our hosts walked us out to the main road, which was a bit confusing. They instructed us to get into the back of this pick-up truck, so we did, not really knowing where we were going, but we knew it had something to do with the fiesta. They took us to another family´s home for the pre-celebration, and they offered the family a live chicken (as did about 20 other families). This community was San Augustine de Caja, and they offered us food, and many beverages. There was lots of dancing with chickens, singing, guitar playing, colorful dresses and masks. The masks symbolized the indigenous community´s interest in preserving their heritage, and putting on a fake mask to keep that within them. It also had a mirror on the forehead, which was to reflect and honor the sun. The beverages were an experience in themselves. Chicha (a mild homemade liquor of yucca or oats and spices) was in a bucket, and they scooped out a cup full of drink for you to have, then you give them back the cup for the next person to drink. They also insisted we drink a mandarin infused pure whiskey to warm us up in the cold weather. Again we were to take a quick shot, and give the cup back for the next person. (They also used this process for soda and fruit wines). Because it was part of the celebration, I couldn´t say no - it wasn´t the cleanliest experience, but it was awesome.
After the pre-celebration, we were herded onto the main road. They had a truck in the front with people playing guitars, and a 18 wheel truck with a huge flatbed, where they had a band and speakers blaring the music. So, we (100+ guests) walk and dance right onto the Panamerican Highway, yes a two-road highway, and start heading back to where the main celebration was taking place. Cars were honking, some were taking pictures, buses and trucks were passing us by, but it was incredible - dancing, singing and drinking on the highway that Che Guevarra rode through on his motorcycle. After about 2 hours of walking/dancing we finally got to the large festival, and it appears that these pre-celebrations took place in other communities, and they all converged in one open field, surrounded by mountains, to dance, drink, sing, and eat. It was fun. It was also really cold. Overall, I can´t really do justice to the experience, but I felt really blessed to have been able to participate in such an amazing event.
I´ll have to save other stories and descriptions about the hostel and Stanford students who I got to visit in action for another time.
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